Borked Laptop = Build new computer

[Nique]

So the laptop I "borrowed" from my wife was dropped hard last night with an 'xp security' virus. Normally it wouldn't be a big deal but the system won't boot up using anything other than a normal start (No type of 'Safe Mode' is working), and after 2-3 min from logging in the system restarts without warning. I'm using XP and possible causes are A)Reddit or B)Connecting to our external HDD which would SUUUUCK (someone please tell me if this is even possible?). Both possibilities include a healthy dose of C) I've been running around online with my proverbial pants down (No virus protection or scanning at all).

At this point I've been told that the virus is embedded deep within the mystic catacombs of the system files, and recovering any files from the hard drive is a fools game becuase the virus will simply infect whatever I connect the HDD to. Nothing on there is CRUCIAL, but I would like to recover pictures and my boomarks, so I'm open to a second opinion with the reminder that there is literally no way for me to provide any additional information.

I've been tired of dealing with this againg laptop for a while though, so it's an oddly fortuitous time to upgrade. What better way to handle the frusteration of computer problems than going one-on-one with a pile of parts?

It's been 6 years since I built a PC so... I'm way behind. I'm planning on getting everything online from newegg or tigerdirect or whatever, but I'm woefully out of touch with interpreting current specs v. what I need. I mean, some stuff is obvious (More RAM = Good, even more RAM = better). But what about something like processors? Is 2.4Ghz good if it's a Quad-Core? Or should I go with a Dual-Core 3.6 Ghz?

Also, what kind of stuff do I need to get started? Are Anti-static bands really needed? Should I prepare a static free surface (I'm just in a small apartment with carpeted floors), or build the whole thing with naught but thin cotton shorts between me and the rest of the world?

How will I know what will fit in a paticular case, which is an issue occasionally with motherboards, yes? For that matter, I have no frame of reference for Motherboard specifications what's good/bad compatible with the CPU I wind up with?

[McTahr]

I'm drunk, but I build regularly, so combined, that makes my opinion that of a layman.

Re: CPU.
Your entire basis lies in your tendency to multitask. I generally have infinity billion things running at once because patience is for schmucks. If you have similar tendencies, quad-cores are your friend. In terms of numbers. Last I built, about a year ago, 3.0Ghz quad-core was fairly suave.

Re: RAM.
RAM is RAM is RAM is RAM. Numbers pretty much scale as they used to, but the top-tier last I checked was doing triple-channel as opposed to the dual-channel set-ups of yore. 6-8Gigs is your gaming set-up. If you can afford it, I wouldn't recommend below say, 2-4Gigs. Speed should match the Mobo.

Re: GPU.
Shoot for high graphics RAM and decent processing. Crossfire is effectively what SLI was, nothing else of note that's terribly important. This one is entirely dependent on how much high-end gaming you intend to do. You can skimp here if you don't think you'll be booting up Bioshock 3 the second it comes out, etc.

Re: Mobo.
Make sure it has slots for everything and is the appropriate CPU slot, obviously. A good BIOS from a manufacturer you've come to trust doesn't hurt, and try not to get a bargain barrel Mobo, as their BIOS tend to be scripted by first-generation robot monkeys. (Poorly.) Realistically you want at least one PCIe-16x (Maybe even 2.0) slot for the graphics card, 2 generic PCIs for accessories, onboard LAN, support for 8(+)Gigs of RAM, and then the slot of your PCU and whatever other glittery shinies catch your attention.

Re: Act of building itself.
I work on carpet, and I've generally just tossed on shoes and an anti-static band. If you're going to be building on carpet, I really don't recommend going without the $10 bracelet that could save you from replacing a $100 part. As far as an anti-static building area goes, most of my parts get laid out on a bed / glass shelving that conveniently exists through no actions of my own, so I'm impartial in that quadrant. (Of course, I also lay said parts that are going on the bed itself on the anti-static bags they came in. Hey, free anti-static never hurt no one.) Honestly, if you can trust yourself to regularly de-static yourself (Touch case/grounding implement), then you're okay with just quick computing fixes, but even then it's a risk you shouldn't be taking when the price ratio between band and part is greater than 1:10.

Re: Cases.
ATX is the standard last I cared. Standard ATX towers tend to fit for your average computer, with occasional heat/airflow issues. If you have a lot of shit, get a mid tower. If you have a lot of shit, get a full tower.

[Nikose Tyris]

Aim for the 2.4 Quad core if you can.
Get a 64 bit OS.
Get about 6 gigs of RAM. You're spoiling yourself with more, but you're crippling with less.

That's about it.

[Eltargrim]

As to recovering your files: if you have any access to a computer with a CD-RW drive (Or DVD, etc), burn yourself an Ubuntu (Linux) Live-CD. It'll run an operating system from a disc, and thus cannot be infected itself. You can copy any critical files onto your HDD without fear of your system crashing.

It won't, however, prevent you from copying over your virus, so make sure that what you save isn't suspect.

For fitting stuff in a case, you'll want one that will have the same form-factor as your motherboard. In the standard situation, that's ATX. Most motherboards are ATX. Most, but not all, cases are. The case will almost certainly list what it fits. The only hard part will be making sure that your graphics card will fit; 99% of the time it will, but it might be a tight fit. Read reviews to see if the card is super long.

Things to consider with a case: a) cooling b) noise c) style d) What can it fit. If you're planning to have a 6-disc RAID 5, you'll need a lot of hard drive space. If you want to use it as a media PC, you'll want it to be quiet. If you want to be gaming with the top-spec stuff, you'll want a lot of cooling. Bigger fans are quieter.

The power supply also has a fair bit to contribute to noise and cooling. A lot of wattage isn't necessarily better; this is where brand names tend to make a big difference. I can pull up a list of some manufacturers that I've been recommended.

For component compatibility, it depends on what you're looking for. For processors, match socket information. For RAM, match memory standards; a motherboard may say it's compatible with DDR3 2200/1600/1333/1066/80; this means that it's compatible with DDR3 running at any of the listed frequencies. RAM will say it's DDR2-800, or DDR3-1066, or alternatively PC-6400 (etc). The first two are easy to match; if it's in the second format, you'll have to do some searching. Right now DDR2-800 is slooooowcat. You'll probably want faster stuff. DDR3 isn't necessary, but if you've got the budget, it'll allow for expansion in the future.

For matching graphics cards, just see if it has a PCI Express x16 (Sometimes PCIe16). If it does, it'll handle any modern graphics card. The graphics card tends to need additional power directly from the PSU; make sure that the PSU is equipped to handle it.

Don't worry too much about SATA/Crossfire. Find one good card and run with it.

Hard drives haven't changed a bit; for anything followed by a *B, bigger is better. SSDs are the new 10k RPM; if you want lightning-fast read times, load your OS and your favourite games on a SSD and let it fly (Warning: expensive). 10k RPM drives are cheaper, but still mechanical. Honestly, though? Not always worth it, especially if you're on a budget. 7200 RPM works just fine, and usually fast enough too (Unless you've got a complex about level loading times).

USB is still USB; IEEE 1394a is Firewire; eSATA is external SATA, aka for external hard drives. Very fast, if you have a compatible drive. The number of internal drives will be limited by the number of SATA and PCI slots on the motherboard; all worthwhile hard drives use SATA, while it's still acceptable for disc drives to use PCI. If you have extra SATA slots, though, there's no good reason to use PCI CD drives over SATA.

For static; ground yourself on an exposed metal surface before you touch any component and you should be fine. The painted outside of your case = bad. The bare metal inside = good.

Other than that, it all fits in the same spots as before. Just be methodical, read the instructions, and when in doubt, ask for a second opinion.

As for OS: Windows 7 64 bit. If you're a student, or have a friend who's a student, see if their university has a deal. We're talking ~7/8ths reduction in price in some cases.

[Nique]

Thanks for all the input. This is good stuff. If I'm doing light gaming (I'm probably going to run certain free MMOs, but I will never play WoW or probably anything like it - should I maybe look for a MoBo with decent onboard sound/graphics?

As to recovering your files: if you have any access to a computer with a CD-RW drive (Or DVD, etc), burn yourself an Ubuntu (Linux) Live-CD. It'll run an operating system from a disc, and thus cannot be infected itself. You can copy any critical files onto your HDD without fear of your system crashing.

After 2 unsucessful CDs, I finally burned one that seems to work but once I choose to run Ubuntu from the disc, I'm getting an error with the message that the 'Temperature is Critical and shutdown is iminient'. And prior to this, I tried to run recovery discs, but the system kept shutting down before it would complete. Do I have messed up system files/ boot files, or is it actually overheating?

I was going to sell the laptop to someone before this happened, but it looks like I'm gonna have to scrap it instead >

[Eltargrim]

Hum. Answers in order of questions:

1. Onboard sound is all you will ever need, unless you're running 5.1 and are really picky. Save your money; most onboard sound is the same. Onboard graphics is a different thing entirely. I'd highly recommend getting a discrete card for graphics; it doesn't have to be high-end, but a $100 investment will make your life much more pleasant. Onboard graphics can have compatibility issues, won't run as smoothly, and syphon RAM from your operating system. Ok for someone looking to browse the web and watch Youtube; not so ok for games that run on something more robust than Flash.

2. You could always test the Live-CD on another computer, but it sounds like the problem is overheating. This could also be the cause of your random shutdowns; if it's also happening to Ubuntu, the problem isn't in your system files.

Make sure that your fan is actually running; make sure that the laptop has adequate ventilation, and that any vents are clear and free of dust and debris. If you can't hear a fan running at all, it might be worth it to (depending on your comfort level) a) open it up and see if it's damaged, or b) pay someone to do a).

In any case, if you can confirm that the LiveCD is working (by using it on another computer), it appears that the laptop may well have a hardware problem. Either way, it will be possible to recover your files; it's just that the hardware problem will involve a more complex solution.

Good luck!

[McTahr]

Originally Posted by Nique

Thanks for all the input. This is good stuff. If I'm doing light gaming (I'm probably going to run certain free MMOs, but I will never play WoW or probably anything like it - should I maybe look for a MoBo with decent onboard sound/graphics?)

Fuck on-board graphics with a broken spatula. If you plan on gaming at all, just don't.

[shiney]

Listen to the man.

[Nique]

Update on the borked machine - I have sucessfully wiped the HDD and installed Ubuntu (any attempt at installing XP via my recovery disks caused the machine to shut down). Ubuntu, though, has an interesting feature whee it tells you how &^%!'ed up your HDD is. I have a ga-jillion bad sectors and 'Hard Drive Failure' is 'imminent'

Now, I don't know if this is just revealing a problem that was already there, or if during my multiple attempts at recovery I ruined the HDD, but at the very least I seem to have isolated the problem.

[Eltargrim]

...wow. What the hell happened to your computer?

Bad sectors are a hardware thing. If you can actually see bad sectors, things are bad; disc utilities typically don't see bad sectors until all of the spare sectors on the disc are allocated.

At least you can tell if the laptop is overheating; it is still crashing after 2-3 minutes? Follow the instructions here and you'll be able to observe the actual temperature of your processor. 60C is high; 50C is pretty average for laptops. 70+ is dangerous, and close to the cutoff.